Samhain fire: something very special has been happening at the sacred Hill of Uisneach

Something very special has been happening at the Hill of Uisneach over the last decade.
Uisneach is the sacred centre of Ireland, a place steeped in history and mythology, and something of a place of ‘otherness’.

It is one of Ireland’s six ‘royal’ sites, currently the subject of an application for Unesco World Heritage Site status. The others are the Hill of Tara, Emain Macha (Navan Fort), Rathcroghan, Rock of Cashel and Dún Áilinne.

Years ago, the current owners/custodians of Uisneach, the Clarke family, decided to resurrect the ancient Bealtaine fire that was said, in mythology, to have been held annually on the hill. President Michael D. Higgins lit the fire on one occasion (in 2017), and over the years, the Bealtaine fire festival at Uisneach has become a major event, attracting 5,000 visitors annually.

Those of us with a love of ancient Ireland and its myths, legends and customs, have felt – like many – that something has been calling us to reawaken the ancient traditions of our land. Uisneach has been a major aspect of that revivification – a beacon of light, if you will, in a world that often seems shrouded in a blanket of darkness.

In November 2025, a very special ceremony was held on the Hill of Uisneach. The ‘cremains’ (cremated remains) of author, broadcaster and wonderful advocate of the Irish language, Manchán Magan, were scattered among the ruins of a Neolithic passage-tomb on the summit of Uisneach. Two-and-a-half thousand people turned up for Manchán’s ‘month’s mind’ and ashes scattering, an event that was much more a celebration of his wonderful legacy than it was a mournful affair.

Had Manchán not been taken from us all too soon, at the age of just 55, by prostate cancer, he would have also been present at Uisneach this past weekend for another reawakening, in the form of a Samhain festival and fire on the ancient hill.

Manchán had been asked to light the Samhain fire at Uisneach. His early demise meant that he could only be present at Uisneach this past weekend ‘in spirit’. However, his wife, Aisling Rogerson, lit the fire in his place, in a moment filled with emotion for all those who mourn Manchán’s absence.

The rain inevitably came to Uisneach. One cannot plan an outdoor event in Ireland at any time of the year without anticipating the vicissitudes of the weather, but this is specially the case in wintertime. However, the rainfall did not dampen the spirits at Uisneach too much, and in any case all the displays, food stalls, craftspeople and the performance areas were in tents, so most people were able to stay dry.

When 7pm rolled around, the rain stopped just as the procession to the fire was about to begin, and it held off for at least an hour for the fire ceremony. Was that Manchán, looking down on us, keeping us dry? A week before, at his month’s mind, we had experienced all sorts of weather, including sunshine, rain showers, a heavy shower of hail and a couple of rainbows. Many of us remarked that it was especially fitting, since his latest published book was called ‘Ninety-nine Words for Rain’.

At the appointed moment, Aisling lit the fire. There were fire dancers and performers, and a large crowd watching on. Because of the rain, the fire took a short while to ‘get going’, as we might say in Ireland, but when it did it was beautiful. There were cheers and whoops of delight, and much dancing and drumming and chanting and singing.

An hour or so earlier, I shared the stage with Simon Tuite for a special unscripted talk about Uisneach, Samhain and Irish mythology and tradition. A lovely audience gathered under cover at the performance stage and gave us their full attention as we delved into the past.

When we finished, I was over at my car, getting one of my books to sign for a follower. On my way back to the hill, I met several ladies, a couple of whom I recognised. One was Deirdre Wadding, who is an Irish ‘pagan priestess’ and teacher at the Coire Sois School of Irish Spirituality. Another was Eimear Burke, druid and seanchaí. I genuflected before them, as a light-hearted and yet sincere gesture of respect and admiration for two souls for whom Irish mythology is richly alive. Deirdre told me that they were planning to bring the four great treasures of the Tuatha Dé Danann in procession to the Samhain fire, but there was one difficulty. They had ‘no Dagda’, to carry the Dagda’s Cauldron. Would I be interested in representing Dagda in the procession, she asked.

I’m not usually one for pageantry, or dressing up, or taking part in parades. However, I lost my inhibitions fairly quickly, and in light of the ladies’ plight, I quickly replied: ‘Ah sure why not!’

Soon, I was at the boot of Deirdre’s car, as the rummaged through a treasure trove of cloaks, crowns, masks and various bits and pieces of costume. A short while later, I had on a purple cloak and was carrying a golden bowl, representing The Dagda’s Cauldron.

And, for the first time ever at Uisneach, instead of being among the crowd watching the procession to the fire, I was actually IN the procession. And it was very enjoyable. A lot of effort had been put in to the various costumes and procession participants. We brought our ‘Four Treasures of the Tuatha Dé Danann’ in the parade, singing as we went. I loved it.
The fire was lit by Aisling, and we stood there for an hour, entranced by its changing brightness and energy. The rain held off the entire time.

The resuscitation of ancient fire celebrations at the key moments in the ancient calendar – Bealtaine and Samhain – at Uisneach feels like an awakening. It feels as if something is emerging, and indeed it has been for years. Manchán Magan brought attention to this, and spoke about it on many occasions. We are tapping into something ancient. We are experiencing a return to something old, with a new form of expression.

Most importantly, what is emerging is restorative, and healing, and even profound. We don’t know exactly what it is, but we are doing as Manchán Magan implored, and ‘listening to the land speak’. We are remembering the long history of our people, and attempting to bring some joy and celebration into the world as it seems on the brink of a descent into madness.

The Irish have always been a festive people. We love celebrations. We have a particular history of marking the seasons. We enjoy a hooley! Our Oenach assemblies in prehistory were evidentially enormous. After centuries of colonialism, oppression and emigration, in our relatively new-found freedom we are finding reasons for joy, reasons for reflection, and a yearning to reimagine the future.

Long may the flame of Uisneach burn brightly in our hearts.

Anthony